Forget about mastering; the Cat’s eye, perfectly chiseled cheekbones with wicked contouring, a perfectly pouty bright red lip or the latest Halo eye shadow technique. Lets face it, the most important part to any makeup look is the foundation. Even if you are a whizz at any of the above, no one will notice it if your base is cakey, streaky, orange or oily looking.
The Role of foundation is to even out skin tone and texture and create a nice even base for the rest of our makeup. If you are anything like me, you started wearing makeup as a teenager and fumbled your way through applying it, you may have picked up a few tips from friends, but no one ever really TAUGHT you how to apply your makeup. Finding a foundation has been hit and miss over the years, colour selection has always created a hassle and you never really felt confident in applying makeup or felt you were doing it properly.
I finally figured out some secrets to creating the perfect flawless face, every single time. Yes, you heard me right! EVERY time. Here are the common mistakes to avoid to enhance your complexion and create a natural looking finish.
1. Skipping Primer
It can seem like another annoying layer to apply, surely foundation should just be enough??? I have finally learned and appreciate the use of a good primer. Not only will it ensure your makeup lasts all day and all night, it will also stop your foundation oxidising (getting darker/more orange) due to the PH in the oils of your skin mixing with the pigment in the foundation. The primer creates a barrier between the two. It also helps to fill in your pores and create a smooth “Camera ready” flawless finish for foundation. Make sure that you use a compatible primer to your foundation. What that means is: If your foundation is water based, use a water based primer, not a silicon based primer. Please contact me on my FB page Thecreativegirlbeauty if you need further clarification on this 💋
2. Applying Foundation with your fingers
I didn’t think there was any other way for years. I thought professional makeup artists (MUA) used brushes so they didn’t have to touch their clients face… lol. Lets face it, using your fingers is just easier and more convenient, right? Well in all my research and practical tests it might be more convenient, but no, it doesn’t give that professional finish that we all want.
The reason professional MUA’s use brushes and beauty blenders is; so they use less product, the brush blends the foundation on like a dream, different techniques create airbrushed finishes, less texture and no harsh lines that you can get with just your fingers. There are a variety of different brushes and techniques that I have learned to create a flawless look for anyone. If you want to take your makeup look to a new level, without spending hours in the bathroom, learning how to apply your foundation with a brush or beauty blender is a total game changer.
3. Testing colours on your hand
The first thing most women do when they are on the hunt for a new foundation, is test all the colours they like on the back of their hand. You would not believe how common this is. Here’s the thing, 9 times out of 10, your face and your hand are NOT the same colour, so your wont get a good colour match for your face from this method. Don’t believe me? Quickly go and do this exercise and come straight back, run to the closest mirror and do this quick test: Stand in front of the mirror and hold your hand up to your face, I will bet they are not the same colour. Don’t worry, I am guilty of this mistake too. Lucky I know better now and know how to choose a suitable foundation now. Its as simple as this. Test it on your jawline onto your neck, forehead and chest, the colour that almost disappears is your colour. This will ensure you get a colour that will blend from your face, down your neck and look very natural. Most people don’t realise their face is a few shades paler than what they think. Foundation isn’t to add extra colour to your face, it’s to even out your skin tone, lightly cover discolouration, redness, spots etc. You add colour back into your face with bronzer, blush, contour, high-lighter etc.
4. Using Powder foundation
Powder foundation can look chalky and settle into your fine lines and wrinkles and it is a real no-no for anyone with dry skin. It dries out the skin and looks obvious in photos. If you are wanting a matte finish, instead use a mattifying primer and matte foundation to eliminate shine on around your T-zone. Other foundations can bring liquid, mousse or creme form.
The reason you use powder, however, is to set your foundation at the end. I highly recommend a fine setting powder, nothing with too much colour, just a light dust to set your foundation, this is a key step in having foundation last all day. A fine powder shouldn’t settle in your fine lines, you don’t need a thick layer of powder as this leads to the dreaded “CAKE” face.
5. Highlighting fine lines
Foundation is meant to hide fine lines, not enhance them. The best way to avoid your under eyes looking “crepey” or creasing of your fine lines is to apply your foundation thinly. As we get older the skin under our eyes gets drier. I recommend using an eye cream every night to keep this area hydrated. I also don’t apply much foundation under my eyes, I colour correct with concealer and set with a light dust of powder. If you get your skin looking tip top, you won’t feel the need to use too much product.
6. Using the incorrect foundation for your skin type
This one is something I have learned through massive trial an error. I have combination skin, an oily T-zone and normal skin everywhere else. Around my nose and forehead get shiny after lunch, and I thought my makeup melting off during the day was just me. Nope, WRONG! There are foundations to suit different skin types. Actually buying a matte foundation designed for Oily skin, or a hydrating foundation for dry skin is another game changer. Getting the right foundation for your skin means, that it stays on, it won’t look streaky or dry you out or melt off. Your skin looks natural and your beauty is enhanced!
7. Troweling it on
When our skin looks bad, our natural response is to pack on the foundation and hope that we can cover it up. We have all seen someone who has done this, and guess what? we look the same when we do it and it’s not that pretty.
The secret is firstly get yourself onto a skincare routine. It doesn’t have to be expensive, but at least choose one that it suitable for your skin type. I have used lots of different ones over the years and use one that has allowed my skin to look the best it has in years. The trick is to stick to it. Use it every day, your skin will thank you when it has been cleaned and moisturised and looked after. Beautiful skin means that you can use a thin layer of foundation and your beautiful skin shines through.
8. Applying Concealer under Foundation
The purpose of a concealer is to add additional coverage. If you apply concealer first, the foundation thins it out and moves it from where you strategically placed it, which defeats the purpose. If you are having a breakout, you have rosacea, sunspots or discolouration, these can be touched up with concealer on a concealer brush after you apply your foundation, then set with powder.
The exception to this is if you need a colour correcting concealer, this works by using a colour opposite on the colour wheel to the colour you wish to correct, to cancel it out, for example f you have blue circles under your eyes a peachy, yellowy concealer can cancel that out, green cancels out red, purple cancels out sallowness.
Using an appropriate sized brush, apply the concealer to the area you wish to neutralize. Blend the edges so that they feather out seamlessly into your skin. Make sure to work with thin layers of the product, as it will be just as difficult covering massive amounts of green as it is to cover the redness. Once you apply the product, powder it and then go over the corrector with your regular foundation or concealer. Finally, set the area again with powder.
9. Orange Face
I don’t even need to explain what this is. This is a common problem though. You can avoid it by learning what your skin tone is. The reason this happens is that the pigments in the foundation are too warm for the person wearing that foundation. An interesting fact is that most choose a foundation that is a few shades too dark for them too. If you can work out what tone your skin is, it makes selection so much easier.
You will either be Warm, Cool or Neutral. A specialist at a makeup counter or somewhere like Mecca or Sephora can help you work this out, that way you will always know which colours to go for when looking for a foundation.
Its important to blend your foundation down your neck to avoid a harsh foundation line on your jawline and wearing primer will also help you avoid the dreaded orange face.
If you have any foundation questions, need advice or still just don’t know where to start to achieve a glowy, fresh seamless makeup base, please leave a comment below and I will help you make your makeup SIMPLE! Also hit LIKE on my FB page, to learn other new tips and techniques here: Thecreativegirlbeauty